How A Dermaroller Works


Posted on 19th March 2009 by admin

Dermarollers are used for a treatment process called micro needling or skin needling. It is a form of collagen induction therapy, quickly gaining popularity in the USA, UK and Europe. Dermarollers are already hugely popular in parts of Asia where skin needling has been practised for some time. Unlike other treatments for acne scars, stretch marks and wrinkles, Dermarollers do not damage the skin or remove the epidermis layer.

How Skin Needling And Dermarollers Work

Although there are no outward signs of damage, one single micro needle causes a tiny wound in the skin. You cannot see it or feel it as the damage is on a minute scale. Despite the minuscule nature of the wound, the body still acts to heal itself in its own natural way.

The post traumatic response of the skin is to produce collagen and elastin – two of the key building blocks of skin. As there has been no removal or “real” damage to existing collagen, the new formations of it simply add to existing levels.

Imagine now that on a typical roller, there are 192 needles. If when using the Dermaroller the skin is rolled six times (back and forth in three directions), this is over a thousand needle entries, all of which will act to stimulate new collagen fibres. It is not difficult to see that over time, this will act to massively increase the thickness, suppleness and general condition of the skin in these areas.

Skin needling

Step One – The Microneedles of the dermaroller penetrate the epidermis and dermis layer of skin. The process should not be painful and no blood should be drawn.

Other Microneedling Benefits

In addition to stimulating collagen growth, micro needling also create channels through which any substance applied to the skins surface (know as topical application) can be absorbed far more easily. It is, after all, the skins job to keep things out and piercing this shield works well in breaking down that barrier for a limited time.

What this means is any topical application used actually reaches the areas it is intended for. Studies suggest that using a dermaroller in this way can boost the effectiveness of topical treatment by several hundred percent.


Step 2 – The derma roller needles will leave micro channels into the skin. This gives a pathway for skin products to penetrate far more easily, boosting their effectiveness massively. These channels should close up within an hour.

So if you are also applying moisturizing cream or any other type of product, the nutrients or active ingredients are allowed to reach the lower levels of the skins layers. This vastly improves the effectiveness of skin care products by several hundred percent. It also means that the the best conditions possible are achievable for collagen production.

Similarly, if the derma roller is used in conjunction with a hair loss treatment (of topically applied lotion) the effectiveness of the gel, cream or liquid is massively boosted. Considering the cost of hair loss reduction treatments, the Dermaroller represents a superb way to reduce these costs whilst still enhancing results.

Dermarollers For Cellulite

With the thickening of skin, the top epidermis layer lies tighter and firmer. Its outward appearance is improved as it looks younger and healthier. This is the reason why Dermaroller treatments are also suggested for reducing the appearance of cellulite.


Step 3 – The skin naturally begins it’s response to the “trauma” of the skin needles. Collagen and elastin is generated and added to the existing stock of the skin. These bulk up the thickness, creating great looking, firmer and healthier looking skin.

As with Hair Loss treatments, treating cellulite with a dermaroller will require the use of third party products. Dermarollers in these cases, will only enhance and improve results and without other products, their results will be limited.

Advantages of Skin Needling

  • There are many advantages to using a Dermaroller at home or professionally.
  • Dermaroller treatments do not take a lot of time
  • Skin Needling does not visibly damage the skin
  • Any part of the body can be treated with the Dermaroller
  • All skin types can undergo micro needling without fear of hyper pigmentation
  • Buying a Dermaroller is far cheaper than alternative treatment techniques
  • Skin becomes naturally thicker and tighter with the increase of collagen
  • Microneedling dramatically increases the effectiveness of skin care products


Skin Needling Treatments

The Dermaroller can be used to treat all of the following

Dermaroller Effectiveness

No two people are the same. What works for one may have no effect on another. However, Dermarollers do work and work very well in the vast majority of cases. Taking scar treatment as an example, although you may not achieve total scar removal you will certainly see a significant improvement in the appearance of the scar.

The effectiveness of skin care products is certainly boosted (we hold no responsibility for the effectiveness of skin care products) as the micro channels act in a similar manner on everyone who uses a Dermaroller.

Before and After Dermaroller Use

Collagen formation will differ on a case by case basis. Factors such as age, needle length, diet and general well-being may all affect results. However, we are confident that when using a Dermaroller you will see a visible improvement whatever you use it for. In fact, we are so confident it will work for you that we offer a money back guarantee.

Skin Needling – Dermaroller Safety

Using a derma roller is not recommended for those with the following:

  • Those with active infections
  • Chronic skin disorders
  • Blood clotting problems
  • Poor healing
  • Skin malignancies
  • Active acne
  • Eczema
  • Rosacea
  • Psoriasis
  • Severe solar keratosis
  • Raised moles or warts

Always follow the Dermaroller instructions. Do not share your Dermaroller with other people. We recommend consulting a doctor before using a Dermaroller.


Be Sociable, Share!
  1. Malini says:

    if we are using the dermaroller, do I need to apply any specifc face cream or any normal one do.

    19th March 2009 at 4:19 am

  2. admin says:

    Hi Lyn. No specific face cream is required although it is thought that creams containing vitamins a, c and e are good for anti ageing. As with anyone, try to match your cream your skin type e.g oily or dry, etc. Its important to use a minimum spf of 15 to protect your skin from the suns UV rays. Thank you Lyn

    19th March 2009 at 4:27 am

  3. lara says:

    ..where can i buy DERMAROLLER ang how much???

    19th March 2009 at 3:47 am

  4. admin says:

    Hi Lara. Sorry for the delay. It’s been hectic here. You can buy a dermaroller from (easiest way). You can also buy one at Thank you Lara

    19th March 2009 at 2:56 am

  5. Mona Lyn says:

    Hi! Does dermaroller works with old scars? I have quite old scars caused by chicken pox. Also i’m using a cream now (dermatix) can i use them together? Thanks

    19th March 2009 at 8:50 am

  6. admin says:

    Hi Mona. Yes dermarollers work on old scars. There haven’t been any problems reported regarding the use of dermatix so I would say that this is fine.
    Thank you Mona.
    Kind regards
    Roanna Freestone (Registered Nurse and Beauty Therapist)

    19th March 2009 at 3:48 am

  7. admin says:

    Hi Mona. Dermarollers do work on old scars. There has been no reports of any problems with Dermatix so I would say that this is fine.
    Thank you
    Kind Regards
    Roanna Freestone (Registered Nurse and Beauty Therapist)

    19th March 2009 at 5:16 am

  8. lori says:

    i am using a derma roller and i have used it about 3 times but only for five mins each thime because it starts to get sore after a while when will i notice a change and will i notice one at all these are new stretch marks so they are pretty red :)

    19th March 2009 at 5:58 am

  9. admin says:

    Hi Lori.

    It may be that you are rolling with too much pressure. It is recommended that people roll 4 times up and down, 4 times left and right, 4 times north east to south west (diagonally) and 4 times north west to south east (diagonally). A total of 16 times. Don’t feel that you have to apply lots of pressure for it to work. Use the dermaroller on alternate days for about 3 times a week e.g. Monday, Wednesady, Friday, etc. The day off in between rolling will allow the skin to heal itself and recover from the rolling. Try to be patient with the dermaroller, sometimes it takes a bit of time. Also, ensure that you are using a cream or oil after you have used the dermaroller e.g. Bio-oil or Health aid vitamin e oil are good brands and are effective with stretch marks (we sell these on our website: Wait until the soreness to your skin has disappeared and then try rolling again. Hope this helps.

    Thank you Lori.

    Kind regards

    Roanna Freestone (Registered Nurse and Beauty therapist)

    19th March 2009 at 1:27 am

  10. Savio says:

    Hi Can I apply Derma roller with salicylic acid..(like the maxclarity salicylic)..

    19th March 2009 at 8:31 am

  11. admin says:

    Hi Savio. We havn’t heard of any problems with salicylic acid. However, to be on the safe side, I would go to a pharmacist and ask them if you have to be careful with doing other skin treatments whilst using the salicylic acid. If you manage to find out any information, please could you let us know. We would love to know more about this product.

    Thank you Savio

    Kind regards

    Roanna Freestone (Registered Nurse and Beauty Therapist)

    19th March 2009 at 3:17 am

  12. Espiritu says:

    Hi. So one DOES NOT have to penetrate the needles on their skin all the way down TO THE PLASTIC THAT ACTUALLY HOLDS THE NEEDLE??? A little confused. Because they talk about here about the needle penetrating the dermis and epidermis and so I’m wondering if THE PLASTIC THAT HOLDS THE HEAD OF THE NEEDLE HAS TO BE TOUCHING MY SKIN WHEN I ROLL. Anotherwards, penetrate the needles all the way down. Kind of scary, eh. If Admin can please let me know. And thank you to Admin for answering my first question somewhere else on this site.

    19th March 2009 at 8:01 pm

  13. Ro Freestone says:

    Hello Sirena.

    When using the dermaroller, it does not have to penetrate all the way down to the very base of the needle. Roll over the skin and apply as much pressure without it becoming too uncomfortable. If you have a high pain threshold, you may feel that you can roll a little harder. You may not feel that you are rolling hard enough, but you are. You don’t have to roll extremely hard as it may cause the skin to bleed. The dermaroller is causing trauma to the skin (tiny holes- that may not be visible, so don’t worry). This allows the skin to heal itself and stimulate collagen production, helping to even out the skin. Hope this helps.

    Thank you Sirena.

    Kind regards

    Roanna Freestone ( Registered Nurse and Beauty Therapist)

    19th March 2009 at 8:05 pm

  14. Espiritu says:

    Yes, Roanna. You helped soooooo much. Thank you.

    19th March 2009 at 11:01 am

  15. Alexia says:

    How do you sanitize or clean the Medic roller or Dermaroller?

    19th March 2009 at 8:40 pm

  16. admin says:

    Hi Alexia

    I myself do professional dermaroller treatments in the UK and therefore have to dispose of the dermaroller after use due to having to achieve pin point bleeding during the treatment. However for dermaroller use at home, I recommend that people use Barbicide to disinfect the roller. I use this when I am disinfecting equipment following beauty therapy treatments (qualified nurse and beauty therapist). This can be purchased on the internet. If you require any more information regarding demarollers or professional dermaroller treatments in the UK, please visit: or

    Thank you Alexia

    Kind Regards


    19th March 2009 at 8:45 pm

  17. Camilla says:


    I have a 2mm dermaroller, I have hyperpigmentation across my arms from acne scarring and have gone brown in the sun etc..

    Does it work on hyperpigmentation?

    Will I make it worse?

    Thanks :)

    19th March 2009 at 5:12 pm

  18. admin says:

    Hi Camilla

    Research has shown that using a 2.0mm dermaroller can reduce the appearanace of hyperpigmentation. The best size to use is a 2.0mm dermaroller. For information regarding dermarollers and skincare products and to purchase, please visit: or Hope this helps.

    Thank you Camilla

    Kind Regards


    19th March 2009 at 5:13 am

  19. alli says:

    hiya, i have gone through facial fat loss(weight lifting) especially upper cheek and eye area, which makes the face look alot smaller
    but ihave develped creases one under each from nose bridge to top cheek bone and also smile lines.. i was wondering could derma roller help to minimize these lines…iam 32 years old regards

    19th March 2009 at 2:55 pm

  20. admin says:

    Hiya Ali.

    The dermaroller can help to minimise the appearance the of these facial lines. The most suitable size for your face would be the 0.5mm roller. There are many different brands of dermaroller which are all effective, although the most popular dermaroller appears to be the MT roller which is the best value for money. For more information on dermarollers, please visit: or

    Thank you Ali

    Kind Regards


    19th March 2009 at 1:52 am

  21. reyes says:

    does derma roller really work on white scars on face????

    19th March 2009 at 6:32 pm

  22. admin says:

    Hi Reyes

    The dermaroller can work on facial scars. As well as improving their appearance, the dermaroller will allow better penetration of your skin products. Therefore it may be worth after using your dermaroller, to use a skin product which helps to fade scars e.g. Bio-oil. For more information on Dermarollers and Bio-oil and to purchase any products, please visit: or

    Hope this helps

    Thank you Reyes

    Kind Regards


    19th March 2009 at 2:01 am

  23. Lilian says:

    Hi Roanna,

    I was wondering if the collagen we apply on our skin can be use together with the dermroller? – to improve and expedite the healing of scars and/or skin.
    Also when do you use the different lengths of needled rollers?

    19th March 2009 at 8:35 pm

  24. admin says:

    Hi Lilian

    Yes that is fine to use the collagen on your skin in conjunction with your dermaroller. Is is recommended to use a 0.5mm dermaroller on the face, a 1.0mm roller on the arms and breast area and a 1.5mm on thighs and stomach. You can use the dermaroller three or four times a week with 1 day off in between rolling days e.g. You could use the dermaroller on: Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. The days off in between allows the skin to recover from the dermaroller procedure and repair and regenerate itself. Don’t roll too firmly, although a certain amount of pressure is required to reach into the deeper layers of the skin. Hope this helps.

    Thank you Lilian

    Kind Regards


    19th March 2009 at 2:15 am

  25. Kenneth says:

    hello, I would like to know how many times I should roll the derma roller over my skin and in what direction for my stretchmarks. My stretchmarks are very old, 17yrs old, because of growth spurs during childhood. will the derma roller still have an effect on them? plus I have brown skin and my stretch marks are lighter than my natural skin color. Will the healing process return the light color of the stretch marks back to my brown skin tone and fill in the indentation cause by the stretchmarks?

    19th March 2009 at 4:46 pm

  26. admin says:

    Hi Kenneth.

    The age of the stretchmarks doesn’t matter. Both old and new marks should be respond as well to any skin needling treatment. As the skin thickens, it should take on a more similar colour to that of it’s surrounding area as well. This is true of all skin tones.

    We do try and provide as much info as possible on all treatment types. Our stretch mark page should answer most questions. If you need to know more about specific cases, then we do have an NHS registered nurse who can take enquiries. Her email is and she is in the office to answer messages once a week.

    Thanks Kenneth.

    19th March 2009 at 3:37 am

  27. Sina says:


    a little question: is it possible for the point of the needle to break and remain in the skin?

    19th March 2009 at 10:21 am

  28. admin says:

    Hi Sina

    We have never come across a case where this has happened. It is difficult to see how this could even happen under normal use.

    Hope that puts your mind at rest.

    19th March 2009 at 6:43 am

  29. nesh says:

    when cleaning the dermaroller after use, what kind of disinfectant ill be using for it? is alcohol can be used?
    should i need to soak the entire dermaroller in it?

    19th March 2009 at 11:54 am

  30. admin says:

    Any sterilising solution can be used. You can use alcohol which can be bought from the pharmacy as they will know the percentage you need. You can also use any strerilising solution that can be found in any pharmacy. The main part you need to soak is the roller head, ensure that this is entirely in the solution, although don’t put the roller away wet as this may cause rust. Wait for the roller to dry completely before putting it away.

    19th March 2009 at 4:03 am

  31. Anna says:

    HI !I want to ask about the creams or oils which i have to use after usng derma roller ,i used to aply aloe vera gel and vitamin e oil but som ppl say that dont put any thing ,let the skin heal …….

    19th March 2009 at 2:42 pm

  32. Amy says:

    Its entirely up to you…Aloe Vera gel and Vitamin E oil seems to me like a very good idea as it helps to soothe and moisturize the skin. I would suggest that you do not apply perfumed products immediately after the rolling, as the perfume can irritate the skin.

    19th March 2009 at 5:36 am

  33. zee says:

    how many days does it take to cure scars marks???

    19th March 2009 at 6:16 am

  34. Amy says:

    It is subjective and depends on many factors, the individual person, the amount of rolling, the roller used, any creams or oils used in conjunction with the treatment. For using the roller on its own with 3 sittings a week we say you can expect to see good improvements within a month.

    19th March 2009 at 5:32 am

  35. Hamdan baoum says:

    Can i use dermaroller at home and how can i clean dermaroller and use?

    19th March 2009 at 2:23 am

  36. Amy Gregory says:

    Yes you can use your dermaroller at home, following the instructions on our site.They are easy to clean, leave the head of the roller standing in something like surgical spirit or sterilizing fluid.

    19th March 2009 at 4:39 am

  37. ROBERT says:


    I just bought a 1.0 Derma Roller specifically for hairloss. For facial use, must I use a Roller smaller than 1.0?

    I want to use it for the pores on my nose, vitiligo, i.e. whitening of the skin pigment [if rollers are safe for that?] and various sun/age spots on my cheeks.

    Thank you

    19th March 2009 at 7:17 am

  38. Amy says:

    It is advisable to use nothing larger than a 0.5mm on the face, as the skin there is much more sensitive than on the rest of the body. For your purposes it should be absolutely fine.

    19th March 2009 at 5:52 am

  39. liv says:

    hi, is it ok to put make up after dermaroller session, example:dermaroller on monday and make up on tuesday?

    19th March 2009 at 8:27 pm

  40. Amy says:


    Sure it’s fine!You can put makeup on in the afternoon if you roll in the morning, although if you should notice any redness, or flaking of the skin, or any side effects after rolling we would advise leaving off the makeup until those symptoms have recovered, just so it is not aggravated.

    Hope this helps!

    19th March 2009 at 1:09 am

  41. Con says:

    How many times can I use the roller head,without having dull needles?

    19th March 2009 at 4:30 am

  42. Amy says:

    Hi Con,
    A high quality roller can last up to a month ( of rolling once daily 5 days out of 7). Lower quality/ cheaper rollers are only good for about a week or two of use. This is a rough guide as roller ‘life’ is subject to many factors, the amount of pressure with which you roll, the quality and size of the needles e.t.c

    I hope this helps!

    19th March 2009 at 1:26 pm

  43. Brendan says:

    How do I know what size (length of needle?) to get?

    Thank you.

    19th March 2009 at 9:20 am

  44. Amy says:


    The length of needle you require depends on how you wish to use your roller, and how sensitive your skin is. For facial use we recommend nothing larger than a 1.0mm the average person going for a size 0.5mm. The larger sizes are better for the areas such as thighs, belly and bottom where the skin is not quite as sensitive. It is up to user preference at the end of the day, and whatever makes you feel comfortable. If you are new to rolling we suggest that you try a smallish sized roller to see how it feels at first, you can always try a different size next time.

    Happy Rolling!

    19th March 2009 at 9:19 am

  45. eva says:

    I have purchased a derma roller 1 year ago from a dermatologist.He said me only 4 time can do with one derma roller ,once in a month,total 4-months.Here mention it can use 3 times in a week.I did it one time by that dermatologist appliying a anesthetic cream.Can i do with it at home self?how many times i can do?before it do,is it necessary to apply any anestetic cream?

    19th March 2009 at 12:09 pm

  46. Amy says:

    Hi Eva,

    Yes you can roll at home, and a lot of our clients do, however professional assistance is often a good idea You can apply anesthetic creams if you wish, it will help make the experience slightly more comfortable. If you are using a smaller sized roller then you can roll slightly more frequently, but it is up to personal preference, some people like to roll frequently, some like to take a longer gap between sessions.

    Happy Rolling!

    19th March 2009 at 9:20 am

Leave a comment